Imperial Russia – or rather, a dream-like depiction – is at the heart of Zuhair Murad’s Couture 2018-19 collection.
The grand balls held by tsars in Saint Petersburg give way to a sense of aristocratic opulence.
From the Great Ball that once that marked the opening of a season to the decadent wardrobe of Elisabeth of Russia, famous for her 15 000 gowns, to Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina, the historical savoir-faire redefines contemporary elegance.
A bustier dress with an ivory white trail in is adorned by organic motifs or coats-of-arms, and illuminated by washed out gold beading. Another model with long sleeves, plunging neckline is embellished with tone-on-tone dusty blue guipure. Brocade is paired with Venetian velour and embroided with glimmering stones outlining arabesques – reminiscent of Fabergé eggs. A bronze velour cape envelops the shoulders; soft tulle softens strict cuts.
This femininity is layered with the period’s military wear. In a country where every professional stratum was codified via nationally approved uniforms, this nod to regulation adds a rigorous, masculine touch to the collection. Boyar-inspired jackets are punctuated royal eagles’ motifs, badges and corded detailing.
This hybridity is also expressed in a cropped A-line beaded dress in oxblood sequins with a military collar and sleeves; a dress coat in kaki satin duchess elevated with golden silk thread and paired with matching shorts, or a jumpsuit in celadon blue with chiffon sleeves and a floor sweeping cape.
The bridging of the masculine and feminine, of ornamentation and functionality, two usually opposed worlds, reflects today’s modern woman.
This season Zuhair Murads creative spirit took a deep dive to the ocean floor. It is at the sight of the richness of the oceanic world, of this encounter between hues, textures and movements, that the collection was born.
A rich palette with organic elegance, refined yet still modern, has emerged.
A jet black strapless bustier dress is enhanced with shining tone-on-tone ruffles, in silk chiffon or lurex, like a wave that would envelop the body of the one who lives in it. An openwork design with cape sleeves and flowing draperies evolves in shades of deep blue.
Inspired by the limitless horizon of the sea, when the glittering ocean melts into the night sky, Zuhair Murad has offered his own graphic and luxurious interpretation with surgical precision. Architectural but delicate, each model offers a fluid elegance.
Beaded armholes close to the body retrace the natural grooves of sea-shells – all reworked in silke tulle or gauze.
A split skirt with multiple levels of transparency transforms the skin into a luminescent touch, draping is both glazed and diaphanous. The mother-of-pearl, made to shine both in a literal and symbolic way, appears in the form of beadwork, pleats, embroidery and radiant stitching.
In harmony with her environment but in control of her life, the woman Zuhair Murad combines strength of character and instinct with the greatest grace.
Desfile The Atelier 2021 durante la Valmont Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week 2020, en la pasarela española, la firma mostró su colección de vestidos de novia para 2021, así como sus apuestas en tejidos, cortes de vestidos de novia, escotes y colores para las novias de la próxima temporada. Además presenta la nueva colección de vestidos de cocktail y de fiesta 2021 para las invitadas más sofisticadas.
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The Queens Gambit (Music from the Netflix Limited Series)
℗ Maisie Music Publishing, LLC
Released on: 2020-10-23
Producer: Tom Kramer
Orchestra: Budapest Art Orchestra
Mixer: Lawrence Manchester
Music Publisher: Carlos Rafael Rivera
Composer: Carlos Rafael Rivera
Arranger: Jeremy Levy
