DIOR | CRUISE 2021 FULL FASHION SHOW "RETURN TO PUGLIA" | 迪奥/ Диор/डायर
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During this period, I sought to give collective efforts a new dimension. Despite the disadvantages of distance, bringing a different perspective to our daily lives has given us strength and imagination,” says Maria Grazia Chiuri, who for this Cruise show has chosen to reconnect her creative passion with the region of Puglia, a place close to her heart. Texts by the anthropologist Ernesto De Martino dedicated to the region’s traditions – which have influenced authors including Germano Celant and Georges Didi-Huberman – led her to explore their roots. Puglia and its different energies, where magical beliefs such as Tarantism live on, have become in this particular context a concrete form of utopia, a new reading of the world.
hristian Dior (French: [kʁistjɑ̃ djɔʁ]; 21 January 1905 – 23 October 1957) was a French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the worlds top fashion houses, also called Christian Dior, which is now owned by Groupe Arnault. His fashion houses are now all around the world.
In 1946 Marcel Boussac, a successful entrepreneur known as the richest man in France, invited Dior to design for Philippe et Gaston, a Paris fashion house launched in 1925.[11] Dior refused, wishing to make a fresh start under his own name rather than reviving an old brand.[12] On 8 December 1946, with Boussacs backing, Dior founded his fashion house. The actual name of the line of his first collection, presented on 12 February 1947,[13] was Corolle (literally the botanical term corolla or circlet of flower petals in English), but the phrase New Look was coined for it by Carmel Snow, the editor-in-chief of Harpers Bazaar. Diors designs were more voluptuous than the boxy, fabric-conserving shapes of the recent World War II styles, influenced by the rations on fabric.[14] He was a master at creating shapes and silhouettes; Dior is quoted as saying «I have designed flower women.» His look employed fabrics lined predominantly with percale, boned, bustier-style bodices, hip padding, wasp-waisted corsets and petticoats that made his dresses flare out from the waist, giving his models a very curvaceous form.
Initially, women protested because his designs covered up their legs, which they had been unused to because of the previous limitations on fabric. There was also some backlash to Diors designs due to the amount of fabrics used in a single dress or suit. Of the “New Look”, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel said the following, “Look how ridiculous these women are, wearing clothes by a man who doesn’t know women, never had one, and dreams of being one.” During one photo shoot in a Paris market, the models were attacked by female vendors over this profligacy, but opposition ceased as the wartime shortages ended. The «New Look» revolutionized womens dress and reestablished Paris as the centre of the fashion world after World War II.[15]
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