BALMAIN | SPRING/SUMMER 2021 FASHION COLLECTION 4K | PARIS FASHION WEEK | 巴尔曼 / бальзам / बालमैन
BALMAIN | SPRING SUMMER 2021 FASHION COLLECTION 4K | PARIS FASHION WEEK | 巴尔曼 / бальзам / बालमैन
Balmain (French: [balmɛ̃]) is a French luxury fashion house that was founded by Pierre Balmain in 1945. It currently operates 16 monobrand stores, including locations in New York, London, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Miami, and in Milans Via Montenapoleone.[1]
In 2016 Mayhoola Investments acquired Balmain for a figure reported as close to €500 million ($548 million).[2] Balmain was 70 percent controlled by heirs of Alain Hivelin. Balmain does not regularly release financial information, but Les Echos estimated its revenue in 2015 at €120 million (about $136 million), growing from an estimated €30 million (about $34 million) in 2012.[3][4] Balmain expected to reach a revenue of €150 million in 2017, 90% of which is generated by the wholesale channel, and is also putting more effort into direct retail.
After Balmains death in 1982, the house was led by Erik Mortensen, described by Vogue as «Pierre Balmains right hand».[8] Mortensen had joined the house to work as Balmains assistant in 1951. After succeeding Balmain, Eric Mortensen worked to maintain the brand aesthetic in the ever-living world of couture while still maintaining the progressive spirit of creativity in the fashion industry. The Balmain house recruits Peggy Huynh Kinh in 1982 to provide artistic direction for womens ready-to-wear and womens and home accessories license studios.[9] Eric Mortensen won two Golden Thimble awards for his haute couture collections, one for the Autumn/Winter 83/84 and one for the Autumn/Winter 87/88. He left the house in 1990. After his departure, designer Hervé Pierre took over until 1992 working as director of ready-to-wear and haute couture.
Possibly the most influential designer to take over at Balmain was Oscar de la Renta, who led the house between 1993 and 2002.[8] Already a fashion veteran before joining Balmain, De la Renta brought a famous face to the brand Balmain. He lived in New York City most of his life, although he was born in the Dominican Republic and became a naturalized United States citizen in 1971. He fit into the Balmain design aesthetic, with an eye for detail and classic silhouettes. He, like Balmain, preferred modest and simple design rather than extremely ornamental and flashy styles. Couture had been suffering at the time since it was an extremely impractical business, so Oscar joined the brand in order to challenge himself and to help it through the beginning of the decline of couture.[10]
After Oscar de la Rentas departure Christophe Decarnin joined the house in 2005. Contrary to all the designers before him, Decarnin insisted on bringing the brand into the 21st century. He favored expensive prices and flashy pieces that sharply contrasted with the labels reputation for its classic and luxurious designs. He was considered a «star designer», and the brand became more about his star status than about its clothes.[11] In April 2011, Balmain announced that Decarnin was to be replaced by Olivier Rousteing.[12]
Rousteing had joined the company in 2009, after attending a prestigious French fashion school and working under Roberto Cavalli.[13] While he liked Decarnins aesthetic, he wanted to orient the label towards the finer aspects of French couture. At the time of his appointment, Rousteing was a relatively unknown designer, and has brought a fresh take on the brands aesthetic that remains to this day. He was credited with adding an Asian influence to the clothing, as Asia comprises a huge part of the brands buyers.[14]
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